Red Wine and Blue
Americans have a long and contradictory history of imbibing and proscribing.
From Demon to Darling:
A Legal History of Wine in America
by Richard Mendelson
University of California Press
$29.95 List Price
Alcohol can cause delusions—among Americans, anyway, who think it’s reasonable to let a person vote and go to war before giving them the right to sip a fuzzy navel. And these are just the latest symptoms of this affliction, which dates back to colonial days. According to wine-industry lawyer and vintner Richard Mendelson, author of the very engaging From Demon to Darling: A Legal History of Wine in America (University of