The Traveller's Tree: A Journey Through the Caribbean Islands
The Traveller's Tree:
A Journey Through the Caribbean Islands (New York Review Books Classics)
by Patrick Leigh Fermor
$19.95 List Price
Before he was a writer, Patrick Leigh Fermor was merely a war hero, having earned his first fame from deep-cover exploits with the Greek Resistance. During World War II he hid in the rugged mountains of Crete, leading cat-and-mouse strikes against the German occupiers—experience that surely served him well a couple years later when, as he describes in his account of postwar travels in the Caribbean, The Traveller's Tree, he ventured once again into hostile territory: the Dunghill in Kingston, Jamaica. This rickety slum, the "refuge of all the robbers and footpads and murderers of Jamaica," was also the stronghold of the "passionately anti-white" Rastafari. Despite being warned that even police officers and black Jamaicans scarcely dared enter their compound, he strolls in with only feigned ignorance for armor. "I was just going for a walk," he explains when accosted. "What are the Rastafari?"
Before long, the droopy-lidded devotees of Jah are not only answering his question in detail but also "hospitably" rolling him a joint "unwieldy as an ice-cream cone." Here already in Leigh Fermor's first book, originally published in 1950, is the winning mix of nerve, curiosity, and cheer, so charming to readers and other cultists, that marks his two-part masterpiece, A Time of Gifts (1977) and Between the Woods and the Water (1986), an account of a rather longer walk, from Holland to Turkey. But unlike those volumes, The Traveller's Tree, which skips along the Antillean island chain from Trinidad to Cuba, was written within only a year or two of the trip it records. Leigh Fermor's