A new book examines how one agribusiness giant remade the American meat industry
The Meat Racket:
The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business
by Christopher Leonard
$28.00 List Price
I grew up in a house that was once my grandfather’s butcher shop. My father tells stories about playing near buckets of slick and glassy cow eyeballs in the back room, with sawdust on the floor and lambs hanging upside down in the store window. At that time, a butcher was on every few blocks in my Queens neighborhood—the shop was one of two that my grandfather ran along with his brother. In the 1960s, supermarkets moved in and put most of the butchers out of business. Why bother going to a specialty meat store when you could have precut, prepackaged meat at the same place you purchase your other food? My grandfather and granduncle closed up shop and tried their luck with Laundromats instead.
I thought of my family often as I read Christopher Leonard’s The Meat Racket. The book—a meticulous exposé of the meat
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